A toilet that is dripping Water all around the base can be scary. Walking barefoot in Water is never comfortable, especially in the morning. The remedy is typically straightforward and infrequently necessitates the help of a plumber. The majority of fixes are affordable and take a half-hour to do.
Why do bathroom toilets leak near the base?
Toilet condensation collects on the floor
It makes sense to think that the toilet was leaking Water from within because the bathroom contains Water. However, this is frequently the complete reverse.
On the exterior of the toilet bowl and toilet tank, moisture-laden air may be condensing. Drops of moisture are created, which fall into the bowl and tank and assemble on the ground. This might result from a toilet that runs continuously or a temperature discrepancy between the tank of Water and the air in the room.
The toilet is not tightly fastened
Bolts hold the toilets to the ground. The closet flange, made of metal or plastic wrapped around the top of a sewer pipe, is attached to the floor by these bolts.
Leaks from a faulty toilet seal water
The toilet’s base is sealed to the top of a sewer pipe and the closet flange by a wax ring concealed underneath the toilet.
Over time, wax toilet seals may harden or become brittle, allowing water to escape from the toilet’s base. Or the first wax seal might not have been strong enough.
The toilet bowl and tank are loose
The lower bowl as well as, the higher tank are the two main components of the majority of toilets. The tank is attached to the bowl using brass or plastic bolts as well as a connector known as a mack washer.
Fixing a leaky toilet base
This can be remedied, so don’t replace your toilet out of worry. These easy techniques can be used to repair a leak underneath the toilet.
1. Abandon Using the Bathroom
Stop using a leaky toilet unless you intend to renovate the entire bathroom due to a rotten floor. Act the moment you discover the leak.
2. Establish the source of the toilet leak.
Your toilet may be leaking as a result of a bad wax seal. The floor flange of cast iron and PVC is bolted to the toilet. The floor flange connects to your home’s drain, waste, and vent system. The wax seal secures your toilet to the ground flange is usually beeswax.
A bad wax seal could be the cause of your leaky toilet. Over time, it does go stale.
3. Obtain the Equipment
Additional tools, just pliers and a wrench are required to repair your wax seal. Assemble the following equipment for the task:
Tools needed include:
- Channel-lock pliers.
- A crescent wrench no larger than 6 inches.
- A utility knife.
- A paint scraper.
- A hacksaw.
- A large piece of cardboard.
- A new wax seal.
- A plastic pail to catch drips
- Latex or even other waterproof gloves
- 14″ or 5/16″ toilet bolts
- Rubber shims
- A suction instrument like a turkey bottle top or a shop vac
- Bath caulk
Have these materials on hand if you need to repair the seal quickly.
4. Shut off the Water
Before fixing the toilet, find the shut-off lever behind it and close it. Frequently, the valve is directly behind the toilet and only needs to be turned once.
5. Fill the Tank
Remove the toilet tank lid. When the tank has released all the Water, it can flush the bathroom and keep the level down.
Find your central water meter and shut off the home water if Water is getting into the tank thru the fill valve. Then, cut the line that feeds the tank with Water using a set of slip-joint pliers or a channel lock pair of pliers.
You can completely detach the supply route from the tank by turning the nut in the other direction. Use a sponge, shop vac, or suction tool to remove any remaining water.
6. Take out the T-Bolts
Remove the flange bolts’ plastic caps. To remove the nuts from the bolts just at the base of the toilet, use a 6-inch crescent wrench.
7. Transfer the WC
Place your cardboard next to the bathroom. Straighten out the toilet and remove the bolts. Place the toilet on the cardboard with its back or side up.
8. Remove the Previous Wax Ring
Scrape any remaining wax from the toilet base as well as the old wax from the flange. Use a rag to clean the floor flange and the toilet’s underside.
9. Switch out the bolts
Use a 1/4″ or 5/16″ bolt to replace the toilet bolts. After preparing the tee bolt slots, slowly slide the screw into the floor flange. Your plastic washers should be placed over the bolts.
10. Position the Fresh Wax Ring
Your new seal’s wax surface has a wax paper on it; remove it. Over two bolts, position the seal. To attach the beeswax to the flange, gently press on the seal.
The toilet should be raised just above the flange and lowered gradually. Make sure the two bolts are inserted into the two ceramic base slots.
Each bolt should first have a metal washer, then a plastic washer. Over the bolt, screw the bolt nut, then manually tighten the nut.
11. Reinstall the toilet
Sit or kneel on the toilet seat or bowl rim to apply pressure to it. The new seal may be compressed using your body weight. Apply firm downward pressure without causing the base to move or rotate.
12. Secure the Bolts
Tighten your flange bolts with a circle wrench no more significant than six inches. Do not overtighten the nut because doing so could cause your toilet to crack.
Trim the brand-new flange bolts with the hacksaw. Then use a fancy plastic seal to seal off the bolt’s end.
Use rubber shims to stop any wobbling if the toilet wobbles. Trim the shims using a utility knife or razor blade.
13. Reconnect the Water
Reattach the supply line to the tank of your toilet. This connection can frequently be adjusted by hand. If pliers are necessary, tighten them slowly.
Till your tank filling valve closes off, let the tank be full. To ensure the flange seal is waterproof, flush your toilet four to five times. When confident that your new wax seal has effectively sealed the toilet, caulk the toilet’s base to the floor.